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The Moritz Grossmann GMT Guilloche is a masterful expression of horological artistry and technical sophistication, inspired by the colors and spirit of a journey around the world. This timepiece captures the essence of travel through its two dial variants: a matte green reminiscent of expansive meadows and secluded coves, and a vivid orange evoking the warmth of a setting sun. These colors are applied using a special coating that, combined with the hand-guilloché technique, creates a dynamic visual experience that shifts with every angle.
Functionally, the GMT Guilloche is a refined evolution of Moritz Grossmann’s dual-time zone concept. It features a 24-hour scale encircling the dial, with an arrow-shaped hand that indicates the second time zone. This hand can be adjusted in hourly increments via a dedicated crown at 10 o’clock, without affecting the central 12-hour display. The mechanism is driven by a complex gear system that ensures the second time zone remains synchronized with the main time, even when the watch is manually set.
The dial itself is a testament to traditional craftsmanship. Guilloché engraving, performed by skilled artisans using a specialized machine, results in intricate geometric patterns that shimmer with polished brilliance. The hour, minute, and small seconds hands are handcrafted in lance shapes, with polished steel used for the orange dial and blued steel for the green, offering a striking contrast and enhancing the overall harmony of the design.
Inside, the watch houses the calibre 100.8, a manually wound movement regulated in five positions. It features 253 parts and 26 jewels, including three in screwed gold chatons. The movement showcases hallmark elements of Grossmann’s engineering, such as the 2/3 plate, Grossmann ratchet, cantilevered balance cock with micrometer screw, and a separately removable winding unit. The sapphire crystal case back reveals this mechanical beauty, highlighted by hand-engraved components and traditional Glashütte finishing techniques.
Encased in stainless steel and paired with a hand-stitched black alligator leather strap, each version of the GMT Guilloche is limited to just eight pieces, underscoring its exclusivity. This watch is not only a precise instrument for timekeeping across zones but also a celebration of German watchmaking heritage, revived and reimagined by Moritz Grossmann’s modern atelier in Glashütte.
