Limited-Edition ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage Watch by Moritz Grossmann

To mark the 16th anniversary of the manufactory, Moritz Grossmann presents the limited-edition ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage

NOVEMBER 13 2024 | Novelties

Black is the absence of light. This is the physical definition of a colour that is synonymous with classicism and elegance. At Moritz Grossmann, black is used to form stylish contrasts and also serves as a testament to the highest standards of craftsmanship. The limited-edition ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage, for example, has an enamel dial whose manufacture presents multiple challenges. With this, Moritz Grossmann has chosen the occasion of its 16th birthday to once again shine the spotlight on the expertise of the ateliers and workshops in Glashütte.

Tradition requires renewal, otherwise it remains stagnant in the past and cannot survive. This is an approach that Moritz Grossmann has embodied since 2008: the manufactory opened 16 years ago as a tribute to one of the most exceptional personalities in the history of watchmaking in Glashütte. Moritz Grossmann was an innovative watchmaker and, with the founding of the German Watchmaking School in Glashütte, influenced a generation of artisans.

His values and vision now live on in the Moritz Grossmann manufactory, which crafts a small but exquisite collection of sophisticated watches that always remain true to the standards of the man who gave the manufactory its name. Characteristics of these timepieces include exclusive manufactory movements with innovative details that are designed, made and finely decorated in-house in the company’s own workshops. The highest of standards also come into play when finishing the watches, as impressively demonstrated by the special model marking the 16th anniversary of the manufactory.

ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage: contemporary craftsmanship honouring the 16th anniversary of the manufactory
The ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage, which is limited to eight pieces, serves as a contemporary interpretation of the company's philosophy: its theme is the contrast between black, white and red, which brings the art of watchmaking as cultivated by Moritz Grossmann into the modern age.

The deep, perfect shade found on the dial draws the eye. It is rooted in the technique of enamelling, an ancient craft. The oldest known enamels date from the centuries before Christ, when artistic enamels were already being used by people in East Asia and the ancient Egyptians. Later, the art of enamelling experienced a heyday in Byzantium and also in Europe. Even early on, people marvelled at enamel because of its colourfulness, beauty and radiance, and later it was prized for its characteristics, including durability, the fact that it does not age, is smooth and has a fine yet subtle sheen.

As pocket watches started to be made, enamel gained in importance when it came to the production of dials. Its use spread to Saxony, where the art of enamelling was cultivated in gold and silversmithing. In the 17th and 18th centuries, for example, Georg Friedrich Dinglinger, a brother of the well-known Dresden court goldsmith Melchoir Dinglinger, produced some impressive works. Both artists worked under the patronage of Augustus the Strong, Elector of Saxony and King of Poland. Works of art from their workshops can today be admired at the Grünes Gewölbe in Dresden.

The art of enamelled dials
With the renaissance of the mechanical watch, the enamel dial has gained admirers once again. It is treasured not only for its beauty, but also because people are now aware of what is involved in its creation, a complex process that requires much skill. Enamel is formed from glass and other additives. The enamel granules are pulverised, with metal oxides or ceramic pigments lending them their colour. The enamel is then sieved while dry or applied to a dial blank as part of a blend of enamel powder, water and glue. Following the first round of firing and cooling, enamel powder is once again applied to the front and it is fired again. This process of firing, applying enamel powder and firing again is repeated several times.

Layer by layer, this creates a uniform, shiny surface that can be printed with numerals or indices following the final firing. The finished dial is impressively durable: there are no time limits on enamel and it can last for a thousand years.

Approximately 90 steps are involved in creating a single dial for Moritz Grossmann
This is the tradition that gave rise to the enamel dial on the ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage by Moritz Grossmann. And this technique was not just used for the colour black, but the numerals, scales and lettering, such as the historic ‘M. Grossmann’ logo, are also made from enamel. These are applied using pad printing and then fired.

In all, around 90 steps are required to complete a single dial. These take several days to complete and at every single stage, there is a risk that the enamel will crack on firing, bubbles will form or the surface will flake. Only a dial that is perfect in every single way will eventually be used in a Moritz Grossmann watch. In such watches, it serves as the canvas for time, above which polished steel hands circle with their finely pointed tips.

The deep black of the dial is a reminder of the power of colour. The perfectly smooth surface is so still that you feel you could dive straight into it. This effect is underpinned by the slimline, finely drawn Roman numerals that contrast sharply with their clear white and the red XII. A simple case in white gold provides the perfect backdrop, with the sides merging seamlessly into the case horns. The transparent case back offers an unrestricted view of a movement that is perfection itself, matching the finish in every detail.

The art of watchmaking from Glashütte: the calibre 100.1
The inside of the ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage is home to the calibre 100.1, a pillar movement with well-proportioned components made from untreated German silver in a high-quality finish. The characteristic 2/3 plate with broad, horizontal ribbing has been signed by a hand engraving. It has a curved cut-out that reveals the distinctive Grossmann balance, held by a stepped, hand-engraved balance cock with the typical fine micrometer screw.

Another special feature of the manufactory movement is the perfected hand setting mechanism, which eliminates two potential problem areas: avoiding the ingress of foreign particles during the adjustment process and altering the hands unintentionally when pushing the crown back into place.

With a short pull on the winding crown, the mechanism switches to hand setting and stops the movement at the same time. The crown immediately returns to its original position, where the hands can now be precisely adjusted. The movement is then restarted using a pusher situated below the winding crown. This simultaneously resets the mechanism to its winding function.

Exclusive special edition
The ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage in honour of the 16th anniversary of the manufactory has a case in white gold, worn on a black alligator leather strap. This special model is limited to eight pieces.

Enamel Roman Vintage

Technical Data

Version		Limited Edition of 8 pieces
Reference		MG-003717

Movement		Manufactory calibre 100.1, manual winding, regulated in five positions
No. of parts		198
Jewels		20 jewels, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement		Lever escapement
Oscillator		Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Balance Diameter		14.2 mm, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve		42 hours when fully wound
Functions		Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop second, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
Special features		Grossmann balance; hand setting override and start of movement with lateral pusher; space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock; pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver; hand-engraved 2/3 plate, balance cock and escape-wheel cock hand-engraved; broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; separately removable clutch winding mechanism; stop seconds for hand setting
Operating elements		Crown in 750/000 gold , to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in 750/000 gold to start the movement
Case dimensions		Diameter: 41.0 mm, height: 11.35 mm
Movement dimensions		Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.0 mm
Case		Three-part, precious metal
Dial		Enamel, Roman numerals in white, XII in red
Hands		Manually crafted, polished steel
Crystal/display back		Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Strap		Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in precious metal

JUNE 25 2024 | Novelties

Back in sleek anthracite: Armin Strom unveils the One Week Manufacture Edition

Biel/Bienne, Switzerland, 26 June 2024: Following the inaugural redesigned One Week First Edition that made its debut in 2023, Armin Strom unveils a new version of the successor to its first-ever manufacture movement with the One Week Manufacture Edition. The highly architectural openworked movement, housed in a sleek and sporty steel case with an integrated bracelet, is now presented in a range of grey and anthracite hues. Limited to 100 pieces, the One Week Manufacture Edition foregoes colour to bring out the beauty of its uniquely constructed manual calibre.

15 years ago, independent watchmaking brand Armin Strom took a major leap that would forever change its trajectory. Realising that the path to true independence lies in mastering every step of the process, it established its very own manufacture in Biel. A year later, the first timepiece produced by its vertically integrated manufacture was unveiled: the One Week. Entirely developed and manufactured in-house and designed with symmetrical harmony in mind, it stood out thanks to its unique movement architecture featuring two barrels that together provide a seven-day power reserve. This milestone marked the beginning of many new calibres and innovations by the Armin Strom manufacture, showcasing their dedication to the science of movement and garnering the admiration and respect of even the most discerning and seasoned collectors.

The new One Week Manufacture Edition completely reimagines this milestone calibre in line with the brand’s recent bolder, more three-dimensional approach to calibre design, all in a sleek and serene execution that further highlights its ingenuity and uniqueness. The mainplate, bridges and parts, visible on the dial thanks to the openworked movement design, are anthracite PVD coated for a striking look.

As Armin Strom founder Serge Michel notes: “Collectors who missed the opportunity to get a first edition of the redesigned One Week will now have another chance. The Manufacture Edition of the new One Week will be limited to 100 pieces.”

Sporty yet classy, this model exudes calmness and serenity with its anthracite tones and the symmetrical harmony of its in-house movement.

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JANUARY 08 2025 | Novelties

Perpetual Moon 41.5 Red Gold “Year of the Snake” - A charming snake

According to the traditional Chinese calendar, 2025 is the Year of the Wooden Snake and will be ruled by the words perspicacity, intelligence and prudence. In its honour, Arnold & Son is creating Perpetual Moon 41.5 “Year of the Snake”: a series of eight timepieces in red gold. Combining a manufacture calibre with a large astronomical moon – one of its specialities – with an aventurine glass dial base – one of its signatures – and a wealth of delicately worked artistic crafts – one of its recurring themes – Arnold & Son presents a masterful interpretation of the Year of the Snake.

The Year of the Wooden Snake starts on 29 January 2025. Under this element, the reptile foretells transformation and a need for self-improvement, combined with energy and introspection. It is a year of negotiations, shrouded in mystery and secrecy. Arnold & Son is celebrating the Chinese zodiac calendar with Perpetual Moon 41.5 “Year of the Snake”.

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MARCH 28 2024 | Watches and Wonders 2024

Angelus Instrument de Vitesse - 60 Seconds Flat

Instrument de Vitesse, a new opus in the La Fabrique collection, revives the golden age of timed races. This single push-piece chronograph seems to have been plucked from the dashboard of a vintage GT car. It is equipped with a single timing hand – the centre seconds hand – and can time a maximum of one minute. With its sleek and refined retro sports look, Instrument de Vitesse is intended for enthusiasts of watchmaking history and culture. Housed in a 39-mm steel case, its 4.20 mm manually wound Manufacture calibre ensures that the finished timepiece is less than 10 mm thick. Instrument de Vitesse is available with an ivory-white or ebony-black dial in two limited series of 25 timepieces each.

Appearances can sometimes be deceptive. At first glance, Instrument de Vitesse does not appear to be a classic chronograph. With its three central hands, it looks like a watch... with three hands, but the tachymeter scale running around the outer edge of the dial reveals its chronometric function. For this is a chronograph presented in its purest expression, dedicated to timing short bursts – a measuring instrument designed to take average speed readings over a maximum of 60 seconds. This, in turn, casts new light on the crown, which also acts as the chronograph’s single push-piece to set the slender centre seconds hand in motion.

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APRIL 01 2026 | Watches and Wonders 2026

The Architecture of Two Worlds: Chronoswiss Unveils the PULSE GMT Collection

Chronoswiss marks a definitive leap into the future of independent watchmaking with the introduction of the PULSE GMT, a collection that represents one of the most progressive chapters in the brand's history. Inspired by the mechanical spirit of the 1999 Tora icon, this new series redefines traditional design codes through a radically modern lens while maintaining the brand's independent spirit. The collection is built specifically for global travelers and collectors who move between continents and time zones, requiring a sophisticated mechanical companion.

The PULSE GMT features a bold, sculptural case construction that seamlessly integrates the first full metal bracelet in Chronoswiss history. This architectural approach ensures a unified presence on the wrist, blending the iconic onion crown and coin-edge bezel with contemporary lines. Whether crafted from high-strength Grade 5 Titanium for daily wear or solid 18-carat 5N Gold, the 41mm case offers a powerful physical and visual statement.

At the heart of the collection beats the Manufacture Caliber C.6002, an automatic movement developed exclusively with La Joux-Perret. This dedicated mechanical construction provides a true dual-time display, featuring a 24-hour second time zone on the left and a 12-hour home time on the right, all unified by central minutes and seconds. With a 55-hour power reserve and water resistance up to 10 bar, the movement is designed for movement and mechanical clarity.

The collection showcases the height of Lucerne craftsmanship through two distinct dial interpretations. The Silver Guilloche edition celebrates pure mechanical texture with hand-guilloché patterns cut on century-old machines, while the Enamel Sky Gold features the rare art of paillonné enamel. This demanding craft embeds gold stars within layers of translucent fire enamel over a guilloché base, creating a celestial display designed to last for centuries.

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MARCH 02 2026 | Novelties

Introducing the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby

ARMIN STROM introduces a compelling new interpretation of its most emblematic complication with the debut of the Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby. This creation stands out through its extraordinary natural ruby dial, sourced and crafted by a local Swiss stone artisan. The brand selected only genuine ruby exhibiting depth of colour, fine inclusions, and naturally occurring variations—features that are not flaws but signatures of authenticity, shaped by geological processes over millions of years. As light moves across the dial, subtle tonal shifts appear, infusing the watch with a vibrant mineral presence that contrasts strikingly with the symmetry and modernity of the exposed mechanics.

Beyond its visual impact, this edition embodies ARMIN STROM’s belief that materials must carry meaning. While natural ruby asserts its aesthetic and symbolic presence on the dial, synthetic ruby jewels within the movement fulfil their longstanding horological role of reducing friction and ensuring long-term precision. It is a thoughtful dialogue between nature and engineering, where raw mineral beauty coexists with technical necessity.

At the core of the watch lies the hand-finished Calibre ARF21, a manufacture movement entirely designed and produced in-house. Its defining feature is the brand’s patented Resonance Clutch Spring, which connects two independent regulating systems, enabling the balance wheels to oscillate in harmonic resonance. This phenomenon enhances chronometric stability and is visually showcased by a pusher at 2 o’clock that resets both seconds hands simultaneously—a dramatic demonstration of mechanical synchronicity in action. Operating at 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph) and offering a 48-hour power reserve, the movement transforms a centuries-old scientific principle into contemporary watchmaking mastery.

Craftsmanship remains central to ARMIN STROM’s ethos. The bridges feature hand-polished bevels, black-polished screws, perlage, and circular graining, with Geneva stripes enriching the reverse side. As with every ARMIN STROM timepiece, each watch is assembled twice, ensuring absolute performance and finishing quality. This meticulous approach, combined with the vibrant ruby dial, creates a visually dynamic composition—a living interplay between stone, metal, and motion.

Encased in a 43 mm stainless steel case and fitted with a grey Alcantara strap featuring white stitching, the Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby delivers both presence and refinement. It is not merely a new dial variation, but an artistic expression grounded in horological integrity—an encounter between natural geology and mechanical resonance, distilled into a timepiece of exceptional character.

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JANUARY 19 2026 | Novelties

DANIEL ROTH Unveils the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton

A contemporary expression of classical proportion, revealing the architecture of high watchmaking

DANIEL ROTH presents the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton, a new interpretation of one of the Maison’s most emblematic creations. Remaining faithful to the proportions and restrained elegance of the Extra Plat, this latest iteration introduces skeletonisation for the first time in the brand’s modern revival, allowing the inner architecture of the watch to take centre stage.

Conceived in the spirit of La Montre Objet d’Art, the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton preserves the calm geometry of the double‑ellipse case while offering a transparent view into the movement, transforming technical construction into a visual and artistic experience.

The Extra Plat: A signature revisited
Simplicity, when executed with absolute precision, has long been central to the identity of DANIEL ROTH. During the early years of his independent career, Mr. Roth considered the Extra Plat a complication in its own right, favouring it for the technical discipline required to achieve true thinness and perfect proportion.

Defined by its double‑ellipse case and balanced architecture, the Extra Plat became a cornerstone of the Maison’s aesthetic vocabulary in the early 1990s. While Daniel Roth produced skeletonised versions of select complications during that period, the Extra Plat itself was never skeletonised. This new creation therefore marks a respectful yet meaningful evolution, expanding the expressive range of the Extra Plat while remaining faithful to its original spirit.

The DR002SR calibre: a skeletonised rose gold heart
At the centre of the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is the new manually wound calibre DR002SR, developed and manufactured entirely at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini.

Based on the DR002, the DR002SR has been re‑engineered from the ground up specifically for skeletonisation. The bridges and plates have been reshaped to maximise openness and visual clarity, while preserving structural rigidity and chronometric performance. Crafted in solid 18k 5N rose gold, the movement mirrors the warmth of the case and provides an ideal canvas for traditional hand finishing.

Transparency in motion
Skeletonisation is an exercise in reduction and balance. With the DR002SR, DANIEL ROTH brings this principle to its highest expression. The calibre reveals a wealth of hand‑executed details, including numerous hand‑polished internal angles, black‑polished steel components, and meticulously bevelled bridges—finishes that can only be achieved by skilled artisans and never by machine.

Despite its openworked construction, the DR002SR retains a power reserve of 65 hours and a frequency of 4 Hz, underscoring the Maison’s commitment to both technical integrity and timeless aesthetics.

Slim proportions, uncompromised structure
Housed in a 38.6 × 35.5 mm double‑ellipse case crafted in 18k rose gold, the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton measures just 6.9 mm in thickness. This exceptional slenderness ensures that the watch remains true to the Extra Plat philosophy of discreet elegance and effortless wearability.

Produced in extremely limited numbers each year, the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is intended for collectors who value traditional high watchmaking expressed with clarity, restraint, and depth.

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OCTOBER 02 2025 | Novelties

Moritz Grossmann Presents the New BENU Power Reserve: Tradition Refined

Moritz Grossmann, the independent Saxon manufacture celebrated for its uncompromising craftsmanship and technical ingenuity, introduces the latest evolution of its iconic BENU Power Reserve. This new interpretation embodies the brand’s guiding principle: progress in harmony with tradition.

A Dial That Captures Light and Time
The dial is the face of a watch — a canvas where heritage meets artistry. For the first time, the BENU Power Reserve combines its signature linear power reserve indicator with Azurage decoration. This intricate guilloché pattern of ultra-fine concentric grooves animates the outer chapter ring, creating a captivating interplay of light. The softly textured matte center in shimmering argenté silver contrasts with applied blue numerals and indices, while the brand logo and minute track appear in understated grey.

Completing this refined composition are newly designed hands, handcrafted from steel in the Glashütte atelier. Each hand is meticulously beveled, polished, and then heat-blued using traditional thermal treatment. Their elegant curvature and needle-fine tips exemplify the precision and artistry that define Moritz Grossmann.

The Poetry of Mechanics: Power Reserve Indicator
Mechanical timepieces invite interaction, and the power reserve display is a charming expression of this dialogue. Positioned beneath 12 o’clock, the linear indicator reveals a two-tone bar driven by a differential gear train. When fully wound, the bar appears white; as energy diminishes, a blue segment gradually advances — a subtle yet constant reminder of the living mechanism on the wrist.

Inside the Case: Calibre 100.2
At the heart of the BENU Power Reserve beats the Calibre 100.2, an evolution of the manufacture’s foundational movement. This hand-wound calibre incorporates a differential mechanism for the power reserve display and features the brand’s signature innovations: manual winding with a pusher, a cantilevered balance cock with micrometer screw adjustment, and a separately removable winding module. Through the sapphire crystal back, the movement reveals its artistry — broad Glashütte ribbing, hand-engraved cocks, and raised gold chatons secured by blued screws.

Classic Elegance in Every Detail
The BENU Power Reserve is offered in rose gold and white gold, each with a 41 mm case that reflects the brand’s commitment to timeless proportions. The case surfaces are finely brushed to a soft matte sheen, complemented by a cross-grooved crown and slender lugs. A grey hand-stitched leather strap with blue stitching echoes the dial’s accents, completing a harmonious design that speaks to connoisseurs of understated luxury.

A Legacy Reimagined
Founded in 1854 by visionary watchmaker Moritz Grossmann, the Glashütte tradition was revived in 2008 by master watchmaker Christine Hutter. Today, the manufactory continues to honor its heritage through innovation, artisanal excellence, and a dedication to the finest German craftsmanship.