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To mark the 16th anniversary of the manufactory, Moritz Grossmann presents the limited-edition ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage

NOVEMBER 13 2024    |    Novelties

Black is the absence of light. This is the physical definition of a colour that is synonymous with classicism and elegance. At Moritz Grossmann, black is used to form stylish contrasts and also serves as a testament to the highest standards of craftsmanship. The limited-edition ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage, for example, has an enamel dial whose manufacture presents multiple challenges. With this, Moritz Grossmann has chosen the occasion of its 16th birthday to once again shine the spotlight on the expertise of the ateliers and workshops in Glashütte.

Tradition requires renewal, otherwise it remains stagnant in the past and cannot survive. This is an approach that Moritz Grossmann has embodied since 2008: the manufactory opened 16 years ago as a tribute to one of the most exceptional personalities in the history of watchmaking in Glashütte. Moritz Grossmann was an innovative watchmaker and, with the founding of the German Watchmaking School in Glashütte, influenced a generation of artisans.

His values and vision now live on in the Moritz Grossmann manufactory, which crafts a small but exquisite collection of sophisticated watches that always remain true to the standards of the man who gave the manufactory its name. Characteristics of these timepieces include exclusive manufactory movements with innovative details that are designed, made and finely decorated in-house in the company’s own workshops. The highest of standards also come into play when finishing the watches, as impressively demonstrated by the special model marking the 16th anniversary of the manufactory.
 

ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage: contemporary craftsmanship honouring the 16th anniversary of the manufactory
The ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage, which is limited to eight pieces, serves as a contemporary interpretation of the company's philosophy: its theme is the contrast between black, white and red, which brings the art of watchmaking as cultivated by Moritz Grossmann into the modern age.

The deep, perfect shade found on the dial draws the eye. It is rooted in the technique of enamelling, an ancient craft. The oldest known enamels date from the centuries before Christ, when artistic enamels were already being used by people in East Asia and the ancient Egyptians. Later, the art of enamelling experienced a heyday in Byzantium and also in Europe. Even early on, people marvelled at enamel because of its colourfulness, beauty and radiance, and later it was prized for its characteristics, including durability, the fact that it does not age, is smooth and has a fine yet subtle sheen.

As pocket watches started to be made, enamel gained in importance when it came to the production of dials. Its use spread to Saxony, where the art of enamelling was cultivated in gold and silversmithing. In the 17th and 18th centuries, for example, Georg Friedrich Dinglinger, a brother of the well-known Dresden court goldsmith Melchoir Dinglinger, produced some impressive works. Both artists worked under the patronage of Augustus the Strong, Elector of Saxony and King of Poland. Works of art from their workshops can today be admired at the Grünes Gewölbe in Dresden.

 

The art of enamelled dials
With the renaissance of the mechanical watch, the enamel dial has gained admirers once again. It is treasured not only for its beauty, but also because people are now aware of what is involved in its creation, a complex process that requires much skill. Enamel is formed from glass and other additives. The enamel granules are pulverised, with metal oxides or ceramic pigments lending them their colour. The enamel is then sieved while dry or applied to a dial blank as part of a blend of enamel powder, water and glue. Following the first round of firing and cooling, enamel powder is once again applied to the front and it is fired again. This process of firing, applying enamel powder and firing again is repeated several times.

Layer by layer, this creates a uniform, shiny surface that can be printed with numerals or indices following the final firing. The finished dial is impressively durable: there are no time limits on enamel and it can last for a thousand years.

 

Approximately 90 steps are involved in creating a single dial for Moritz Grossmann
This is the tradition that gave rise to the enamel dial on the ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage by Moritz Grossmann. And this technique was not just used for the colour black, but the numerals, scales and lettering, such as the historic ‘M. Grossmann’ logo, are also made from enamel. These are applied using pad printing and then fired.

In all, around 90 steps are required to complete a single dial. These take several days to complete and at every single stage, there is a risk that the enamel will crack on firing, bubbles will form or the surface will flake. Only a dial that is perfect in every single way will eventually be used in a Moritz Grossmann watch. In such watches, it serves as the canvas for time, above which polished steel hands circle with their finely pointed tips.

The deep black of the dial is a reminder of the power of colour. The perfectly smooth surface is so still that you feel you could dive straight into it. This effect is underpinned by the slimline, finely drawn Roman numerals that contrast sharply with their clear white and the red XII. A simple case in white gold provides the perfect backdrop, with the sides merging seamlessly into the case horns. The transparent case back offers an unrestricted view of a movement that is perfection itself, matching the finish in every detail.

 

The art of watchmaking from Glashütte: the calibre 100.1
The inside of the ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage is home to the calibre 100.1, a pillar movement with well-proportioned components made from untreated German silver in a high-quality finish. The characteristic 2/3 plate with broad, horizontal ribbing has been signed by a hand engraving. It has a curved cut-out that reveals the distinctive Grossmann balance, held by a stepped, hand-engraved balance cock with the typical fine micrometer screw.

Another special feature of the manufactory movement is the perfected hand setting mechanism, which eliminates two potential problem areas: avoiding the ingress of foreign particles during the adjustment process and altering the hands unintentionally when pushing the crown back into place.

With a short pull on the winding crown, the mechanism switches to hand setting and stops the movement at the same time. The crown immediately returns to its original position, where the hands can now be precisely adjusted. The movement is then restarted using a pusher situated below the winding crown. This simultaneously resets the mechanism to its winding function.

 

Exclusive special edition
The ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage in honour of the 16th anniversary of the manufactory has a case in white gold, worn on a black alligator leather strap. This special model is limited to eight pieces.

 

Enamel Roman Vintage

Technical Data

 

                                       

Version   Limited Edition of 8 pieces
Reference   MG-003717
     
Movement   Manufactory calibre 100.1, manual winding, regulated in five positions
No. of parts   198
Jewels   20 jewels, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement   Lever escapement
Oscillator   Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Balance Diameter   14.2 mm, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve   42 hours when fully wound
Functions   Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop second, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
Special features   Grossmann balance; hand setting override and start of movement with lateral pusher; space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock; pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver; hand-engraved 2/3 plate, balance cock and escape-wheel cock hand-engraved; broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; separately removable clutch winding mechanism; stop seconds for hand setting
Operating elements   Crown in 750/000 gold , to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in 750/000 gold to start the movement
Case dimensions   Diameter: 41.0 mm, height: 11.35 mm
Movement dimensions   Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.0 mm
Case   Three-part, precious metal
Dial   Enamel, Roman numerals in white, XII in red
Hands   Manually crafted, polished steel
Crystal/display back   Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Strap   Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in precious metal

 

 

                                           


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NOVEMBER 13 2024    |    Novelties

To mark the 16th anniversary of the manufactory, Moritz Grossmann presents the limited-edition ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage

Black is the absence of light. This is the physical definition of a colour that is synonymous with classicism and elegance. At Moritz Grossmann, black is used to form stylish contrasts and also serves as a testament to the highest standards of craftsmanship. The limited-edition ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage, for example, has an enamel dial whose manufacture presents multiple challenges. With this, Moritz Grossmann has chosen the occasion of its 16th birthday to once again shine the spotlight on the expertise of the ateliers and workshops in Glashütte.

Tradition requires renewal, otherwise it remains stagnant in the past and cannot survive. This is an approach that Moritz Grossmann has embodied since 2008: the manufactory opened 16 years ago as a tribute to one of the most exceptional personalities in the history of watchmaking in Glashütte. Moritz Grossmann was an innovative watchmaker and, with the founding of the German Watchmaking School in Glashütte, influenced a generation of artisans.

His values and vision now live on in the Moritz Grossmann manufactory, which crafts a small but exquisite collection of sophisticated watches that always remain true to the standards of the man who gave the manufactory its name. Characteristics of these timepieces include exclusive manufactory movements with innovative details that are designed, made and finely decorated in-house in the company’s own workshops. The highest of standards also come into play when finishing the watches, as impressively demonstrated by the special model marking the 16th anniversary of the manufactory.
 

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Mystical, untamed and dazzling, the Perpetual Moon 41.5 Red Gold “Year of the Horse” follows in the footsteps of Arnold & Son’s Chinese zodiac collections. In the year spanning 2026 and 2027, the Fire Horse will set the astrological tone for connoisseurs of watchmaking and métiers d’art. To celebrate this flamboyant sign, Arnold & Son presents a limited edition of eight pieces, housed in 41.5-mm red gold cases. And while the noble animal is ever alert, it is at night that the full extent of its fiery, mysterious and incandescent nature is revealed.

A horse rears on a hill top – a commanding silhouette carved out against a star-studded sky, surrounded by the sparks of a metaphorical fire. This is Arnold & Son’s interpretation of the Fire Horse, the sign that will succeed the Wood Snake on 17 February 2026. For the sixth consecutive year, Arnold & Son is back in the saddle, drawing on the full breadth of its artistic savoir-faire. Miniature painting, three-dimensional engraving, fine stonework and the refined finishing of an astronomical moon-phase calibre: the Perpetual Moon 41.5 Red Gold “Year of the Horse” tells a tale of excellence, symbolism and vital energy.

An ardent design
Behind the expressive power of the scene, lies all of Arnold & Son’s creativity and mastery. The horse, in 18-carat red gold appliqué, is hand engraved. From hooves to mane, every muscle seems to ripple with energy. The black aventurine sky shimmers like a vast, celestial expanse, where distant stars mingle with mountainous reliefs and shadowy woodland undergrowth.

In the horse’s wake, hand-painted golden dust evokes a trail of sparks that ignite one after the other as the animal passes. These glowing flashes reflect its inner fire and untamed spirit. Touches of red and yellow Super-LumiNova, diffusing the same nocturnal shades, transform the scene as the light dims. Under the radiant mother-of-pearl moon, the horse’s majestic silhouette stands out, while the embers smoulder with new intensity. Not far away, the constellations of Cassiopeia and Ursa Major take shape on the lunar disc, completing this dual-faced, dual-display dial.

A noble pedigree
On the case back, a secondary moon-phase display enables fast, accurate setting of the lunar age. The heart of the Perpetual Moon 41.5 Red Gold “Year of the Horse”, the manual winding A&S1512 calibre, follows the lunar cycle with exceptional precision. While a true lunation lasts 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.8 seconds, Arnold & Son have achieved such precision that it would take 122 years for the display to drift by a single day from the actual lunar cycle, provided the watch is kept fully wound.

As for all Arnold & Son movements, the A&S1512 calibre is developed, manufactured, decorated, assembled, adjusted and cased up at the Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture. Equipped with two barrels and beating at 3 Hz, it gives the Perpetual Moon 41.5 Red Gold “Year of the Horse” a generous power reserve of 90 hours.

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Chronoswiss Celebrates 30 Years of Horological Innovation with the Opus Purple Rain Limited Edition

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First introduced in 1995 by Chronoswiss founder Gerd-Rüdiger Lang, the Opus revolutionized the chronograph landscape by exposing its intricate movement architecture on the dial side—a radical departure from the traditionally closed and utilitarian chronographs of the time. The Opus became a symbol of mechanical artistry and a signature of the brand’s avant-garde spirit.

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Adding to its rebellious character is a white UV-reactive leather strap that transforms into glowing purple when exposed to sunlight—an unexpected and surreal tribute to the energy behind this creation. Signature Chronoswiss elements such as the onion crown, coin-edged bezel, and patented Autobloc screw-in lugs remain intact, anchoring the watch in its heritage while embracing a futuristic aesthetic.

“The Opus Purple Rain is not just a commemorative piece—it’s a statement,” said Chronoswiss CEO Oliver Ebstein. “It embodies the spirit of mechanical transparency and innovation that has defined Chronoswiss for 30 years. This is a watch for those who dare to see how far precision and design can be pushed.”

With only 30 pieces produced, the Opus Purple Rain is destined to become a collector’s treasure—a celebration of the past, a vision of the future, and a mechanical theatre on the wrist. 

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One Instrument, Multiple Measurements
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APRIL 10 2026    |    Watches and Wonders 2026

Chronoswiss Unveils the Neo Digiteur Chronos: Time Carved in Solid Gold

Chronoswiss is proud to announce the launch of the Neo Digiteur Chronos, an extraordinary evolution of one of the brand’s most unconventional creations. Inspired by the original handless Digiteur introduced in the early 2000s by founder Gerd-Rüdiger Lang, this edition transforms a radical mechanical rebellion into a sculpted gold masterpiece. Housed in a tailored 48mm x 30mm rectangular case made from solid 5N gold (65g) and completely hand-engraved at the Atelier Lucerne, the watch depicts Chronos—the ancient Greek god of time—holding a mythological hourglass.

Rather than utilizing a traditional dial, the watch seamlessly integrates three precise apertures into the sculpted gold scene. The passage of time is visually poetized: the jumping hour appears in Chronos’ scythe at 12 o'clock, the sweeping minute disc flows through the upper chamber of the hourglass, and the continuous seconds rotate below in the lower chamber. Encircling the entire case and printed inside the black nubuck strap is a classic Greek meander pattern, an ancient symbol representing eternity and the infinite flow of time

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Strictly limited to only 33 pieces worldwide, each Neo Digiteur Chronos requires weeks of painstaking hand engraving, ensuring no two pieces are ever completely identical. As a rare fusion of ancient mythology, traditional hand craftsmanship, and avant-garde watchmaking, this collector’s creation represents a mechanical myth carved in gold. The Neo Digiteur Chronos is now available for inquiry through authorized Chronoswiss retailers and official channels.

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Traditional Watchmaking Elevated: DANIEL ROTH Introduces the Extra Plat Platinum

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The defining silhouette of this timepiece remains the signature double-ellipse case, an iconic geometry originally created by master watchmaker Daniel Roth to beautifully frame complex horological mechanisms. To complement this distinctive shape, downward-sloping lugs have been elegantly integrated to ensure optimal wrist comfort while providing a handsome architectural contrast against the light-tan calfskin leather strap. The dial base is forged from solid white gold, displaying a mesmerizing pinstripe guilloché texture executed entirely by hand using a traditional rose engine. Each line is individually carved with masterful control over depth and spacing, beautifully bordered by a gold minute disc finished with a classic filet sauté edge and sharp black typography.

Beneath this stunning facade lies the core of the timepiece: the ultra-thin, hand-wound manufacture Calibre DR002, fully developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the expert guidance of master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. Tasked with striking the perfect balance between chronometric precision and a generous power reserve within a slim 3.1 mm structure, the watchmakers increased the movement's frequency to 4 Hz. To sustain this high frequency without sacrificing energy efficiency or structural stability, the calibre incorporates a specially refined balance wheel featuring a variable-inertia geometry and adjustable counterweights.

An open sapphire caseback reveals the true artistic discipline of the manufacture, where technical engineering and aesthetic restraint seamlessly converge. The movement's bridges are decorated with demanding hand-finishing details, most notably the internal angles which are rendered in a rare, rounded bercé form. Requiring at least twice the execution time of a standard flat bevel, this traditional decoration involves polishing a precise curved radius along the edges to create a brilliant, uniform profile. Shaped and hand-polished in-house using a traditional cabron tool, these components reinforce the brand's unwavering commitment to its guiding philosophy: "La Montre Objet d'Art".

 

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JULY 15 2026    |    Novelties

C BY ROMAIN GAUTHIER 39.5: BUILT FOR EVERYDAY ELEGANCE

Independent manufacture Romain Gauthier has unveiled its latest horological evolution with the release of the C by Romain Gauthier Titanium Edition 39.5. This new iteration introduces a highly anticipated, more compact 39.5 mm Grade 5 titanium case designed to sit effortlessly on a broader range of wrist sizes. Embodying the core philosophy of the collection, the timepiece is built for everyday wearability, blending high-end mechanics with a casual, modern design language that seamlessly integrates into daily life.

Enhancing this newfound versatility, the manufacture introduces its very first interchangeable rubber strap system alongside three expressive new colorways: vibrant blue, energetic orange, and subtle pink. These eye-catching color accents on the dial are matched with corresponding Super-LumiNova hues at night, offering a fresh, lifestyle-oriented aesthetic. The quick-release strap system allows wearers to effortlessly adapt the watch to any mood, outfit, or occasion, transitioning seamlessly between sporty casualness and discreet, refined elegance.

While the exterior boasts a contemporary, relaxed style, the heart of the watch remains deeply committed to haute horlogerie. The in-house manual-winding caliber is gloriously on show through the display back, showcasing finger bridges—historically typical of Romain Gauthier’s birthplace, the Vallée de Joux—reinterpreted with a modern "stepped" architecture. Each Grade 5 titanium bridge is meticulously finished by hand, featuring a highly original dimpled texture achieved through a special hand-engraving technique, set against a beautifully hand-frosted movement mainplate.

Technically astute, the timepiece is equipped with a clever stop-seconds mechanism that uses a snail cam—a nod to the brand’s acclaimed Logical One. Pulling out the crown stops the balance wheel, while pushing it back in prompts the snail cam to turn, delivering an active impulse to help the movement start beating again instantly. Offered as part of the brand's permanent, non-limited collection, the C by Romain Gauthier Titanium Edition 39.5 represents a masterful synthesis of superlative hand-finishing and modern, adaptable luxury.

 

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