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Armin strom sets the tone in the realm of transparent mechanics with the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple

MAY 06 2024    |    Novelties

Armin Strom fuses masterful mechanics with a bold chromatic twist, unveiling its latest Ultimate Sapphire Edition. The iconic Gravity Equal Force now sports a striking purple guilloché-engraved mainplate by Kari Voutilainen. 

Armin Strom’s System 78 collection represents the independent manufacture’s purest expression of innovative haute horlogerie. Within it, the classical codes of watchmaking are revisited to bring about new functions and solutions, while also expressing the brand’s unique aesthetic sensibilities. With an emphasis on transparency, as well as highlighting kinetic elements, the Gravity Equal Force stands out as a technical tour-de-force with an instantly recognisable look – outstanding in form and function, finished by meticulous hand decoration. Now, with the new ‘Purple’ Ultimate Sapphire Edition, Armin Strom is doubling down on integrating vibrant chromatic hues with exceptional mechanics.

Let it reign: Gravity Equal Force Purple

At once regal and electric, the latest edition of the Gravity Equal Force features a colour Armin Strom has never used before. Its base plate boasts a guilloché engraved motif with a barley grain pattern, expertly handcrafted in the atelier of acclaimed independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen using a traditional rose engine lathe. The striking purple colour is applied using a 3D PVD process, which reflects a wide spectrum of tones as it shifts with the light. Making this edition even more outstanding, the small off-centred dial is crafted from transparent sapphire crystal, which is reserved exclusively for the Gravity Equal Force’s Ultimate Sapphire Editions. The crowning glory is a light grey nubuck leather strap with purple stitching and keepers. The Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple is limited to a run of 25 pieces per year.

 

Automatic: redefined

The Gravity Equal Force stands out as the first automatic watch endowed with an equal force transmission integrated directly in the mainspring barrel - a patented mechanism by Armin Strom. It provides consistent power transmission to the regulating organ, ensuring unwavering precision throughout the watch’s autonomy. The power reserve indicator forms part of the barrel, which is entirely visible from the dial side, opposite the micro-rotor with a unique click system featuring two springs for better winding efficiency.

Also this latest creation, part of Armin Strom’s perpetual quest for superior chronometric performance, was entirely developed, manufactured and decorated within the walls of the Bienne-based manufacturing site. Like all Armin Strom watches, the Gravity Equal Force Purple’s movement is assembled a first time to ensure it is in perfect working order and that it meets the brand’s exacting decorative standards, then taken apart and assembled a second time when it is ready to be cased in its final form. 

 

Putting the ‘haute’ in ‘horlogerie’

What separates a mere tool from a work of art is craftsmanship. Like a canvas for artistic expression, superlative hand-finishing applied by specialised watchmakers and seasoned artisans can be appreciated throughout the Gravity Equal Force and its many proudly exposed layers and components. Polished bevels (anglage) on the bridges, black polished screws, polished countersinks, perlage and various types of graining, be it straight or circular, as well as Geneva stripes on the three-quarter bridge visible through the case’s back.

One of the Gravity Equal Force’s most distinctive elements is the triplet of dark grey ruthenium-plated bridges that occupy the right-hand portion of the open display. Inspired by the finger-style bridges found in pocket watches, it takes up to an entire day for these bridges to be embellished by hand. First, the undersides are given a matt finish, after which the sides are given a straight-graining finish by carefully sliding them on an abrasive paper to produce continuous, shimmering fine lines. Then, the inner and outer chamfers of the bridges are bevelled with increasingly fine files and then finished with a flash polish using locally sourced gentian wood to remove even the finest lines. Finally, a straight-graining finish is applied to the top side for ultimate radiance.

Armin Strom : 15 years in the science of movement

In 2008, longtime friends and partners Serge Michel and Claude Greisler took the reins at Armin Strom and founded its very own manufacture in the watchmaking town of Biel in 2009. Just one year later, the duo presented their very first watch with a movement designed and manufactured in-house. Over the following years, Armin Strom would become a truly integrated and self-sufficient manufacture, creating 17 exclusive calibres and developing several world firsts in the domain of watchmaking. In 2016, it introduced the Mirrored Force Resonance, a game-changing resonating dual regulator developed for maximum chronometric precision with a captivating oscillation mechanism on the dial-side of the watch. In 2019, Armin Strom reinvented the automatic watch movement with the Gravity Equal Force, the first automatic watch to feature an equal force transmission mechanism within the barrel that had previously been found only in pocket watches. Today, Armin Strom stands out as a leading force of creative, independent watchmaking, with its own distinct design language and exceptional attention to detail highlighted by hand-finishing all its creations. 2024 promises to be a year full of surprises, and the best is yet to come…

 

Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple

Technical specifications

                   

Indications     Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator
Movement     Armin Strom manufacture Caliber ASB19
      Automatic winding with micro rotor, Geneva-drive equal force barrel, offset display with subdial seconds
Main plate   purple PVD plate with guilloché pattern by Kari Voutilainen
Regulating system   Balance wheel with 4 regulating screws
Power reserve   Geneva stop-work limited to 72 hours
Dimensions   35.52 mm x 11.67 mm
Frequency   3,5 Hz (25,200 vph)
Finishing   Hand-finishing to the highest quality level
Jewels   28
Number of components   202
Case   stainless steel
    Sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment
Diameter   41 mm
Height   12.65 mm
Water resistance   3ATM
Lug-to-Lug   48.09 mm
     

Dial

 

Grey toned off-center sapphire dial with subdial

Hands  

Faceted polished hands and Super-LumiNova® filling

Strap   Delivered with a grey nubuck leather strap with purple stitching and keepers
Width lugs/buckle   20/18 mm
Buckle   Pin buckle or folding clasp available in stainless
Reference   ST24-GEF.SA.AC.M.A7.FC
Limited production   25 pieces per year

 

 

                                           

                                            

 


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Armin Strom Introduces The One Week Skeleton

The Armin Strom One Week Titanium Skeleton, an openworked masterpiece now fully skeletonized to reveal the intricate heart of its mechanics, combines striking design with precision engineering. Encased in lightweight titanium grade 5, it balances strength with comfort, providing a feeling of lightness that makes it easy to wear all week long.

The Armin Strom One Week Titanium Skeleton is a showcase of skeletonization, a technique that is rooted in Mr. Armin Strom’s philosophy and heritage. He sought to enhance depth and three-dimensionality while avoiding see-through to maintain elegance.

The 2023 One Week was already openworked by nature, but this version goes even further, removing more material to highlight the movement’s complexity. Few watches combine openworking and skeletonization at this level. The small seconds dial is skeletonized, revealing the power reserve level and the escapement wheel for a 3D mechanical animation. The mainplate and the barrels are also skeletonized enhancing aesthetics. Thanks to this skeletonization, the power reserve indicator is highlighted as well as the cone mechanism, reminiscent of ancient pocket watches. A major highlight is the case back, offering a mesmerizing view of the entire mechanism.

With a 7-day power reserve, this watch keeps time accurate for an entire week without needing winding. The hand-finished details reflect the level of craftsmanship behind its design. Limited to 100 pieces, the One Week Titanium Skeleton offers a refined, functional timepiece that blends robustness and comfort in a minimalist package.
 

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MARCH 31 2025    |    Watches and Wonders 2025

Chronoswiss Unleashes the Q-Repeater – A Chiming Masterpiece combining Legacy and Future

Time is not just seen—it is heard.

Chronoswiss presents the Q-Repeater Scream and Q-Repeater Blue Note, two extraordinary Quarter Repeater timepieces that merge the sonic beauty of timekeeping with cutting-edge mechanical architecture. The watchmakers from Lucerne have created a bold reinvention of sound, design, and independent watchmaking deeply rooted in Chronoswiss history. Housed in a Grade 5 titanium case, these 42mm skeletonized masterpieces reveal the intricate mechanisms behind their chiming complication. Every press of the 10 o’clock pusher activates the mesmerizing quarter repeater function, where hammers strike to audibly indicate the hours and quarter-hours, making time a true sensory experience. At its core lies a legacy movement, rooted in the vision of Chronoswiss founder Gerd-Rüdiger Lang. First introduced in the 1990s and exclusively produced for Chronoswiss, this legacy caliber has been taken from our archives, meticulously restored, refined, and reborn in the Atelier Lucerne, making these two timepieces an extraordinary link between the past and the future.

What the watchmakers of Lucerne have achieved here is the ultimate evolution—the heart beats with the legacy of the past, carrying its passion and memories, while the body is Modern Mechanical, engineered for the next century and beyond.

Q-Repeater Scream – A Chiming Rebel
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As you can tell by the name already, it’s not just about what you see. It’s about what you hear. Every chime is a scream of innovation, breaking free from the traditions of classical repeater watches. Even the legacy movement itself becomes part of the gig, holding the Super-LumiNova blocks and hand-guilloché bridges—one of which moves when the mechanism is activated, adding to the dynamic energy of the dial. The watchmakers of Lucerne refer to the glowing ceramic blocks as “chicken heads”, a nod to the iconic amplifier knobs found on rock concert stages—designed to crank up the sound and electrify the crowd.

Caged in 42mm of titanium, the Q-Repeater Scream is limited to just 25 pieces. As only very few of the legacy movements exist this might be the final tour of the band. Each piece is a testament to mechanical defiance and unfiltered artistry. A Quarter Repeater like no other— built for collectors who dare to embrace the wild side of watchmaking.

Q-Repeater Blue Note – The Sound of Elegance
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In music, a blue note is an altered pitch—intentionally deviating from the standard, creating a sound that is richer, deeper, and full of soul. One could say – the Chronoswiss way of making watches – and music. The Q-Repeater Blue Note embodies this philosophy, blending traditional watchmaking with a contemporary edge, offering a timeless yet unconventional melody of time.

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Time Reimagined, Sound Reinvented
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This is not just a watch. It is an experience. A fusion of sound and time, crafted for those who appreciate the extraordinary. Chronoswiss has never followed the expected path. The future of independent watchmaking starts here—with a chime.

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gérald genta Introduces Gentissima Oursin 41 with Meteorite Dials

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Inside beats the Zenith Elite GG-005 automatic movement, boasting a 50-hour power reserve, 4 Hz frequency, and an 18K yellow gold oscillating mass, visible through a sapphire caseback. With 50m water resistance and a comfortable rubber strap, this timepiece is as practical as it is artistic.

 

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The watch features a star-shaped arrangement of seven bridges, radiating from the center like a nebula, giving it both structural integrity and visual depth.

The movement is laid out with four lines of symmetry, aligning the barrels, balance, and small seconds for a harmonious aesthetic.

Technical Excellence: A&S5201 Calibre

Dual barrels provide an impressive 90-hour power reserve.

Components are arranged in a kinematic chain around the edge, enhancing both function and form.

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The year 2026 marks a historic milestone for the Moritz Grossmann manufactory in Glashütte, celebrating the 200th birthday of its visionary founder and namesake, born on March 27, 1826. A genius watchmaker, scientist, author, and the initiator of the German Watchmaking School, Grossmann profoundly shaped the craft of horology and the fate of his hometown. Rather than merely duplicating historical concepts, the modern manufactory honors his legacy by blending his cutting-edge philosophy with modern engineering. This dedication to technological perfection and exceptional aesthetics cements its place among the world's elite elite watchmakers.

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Moritz Grossmann Presents the PERPETUAL CALENDAR

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The dial is a study in symmetry and clarity. A full 1–31 date scale encircles the dial, with a cup-shaped indicator framing the current date. The month and weekday are displayed on subdials at 3 and 9 o'clock, decorated with Azurage finishing. Leap year and day/night indicators are integrated into the subdials. At 12 o'clock, a poetic moon phase display features a mother-of-pearl moon gliding across a goldstone sky.

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All calendar functions can be adjusted via recessed correctors on the case, operated with a dedicated tool. A sum corrector allows for quick synchronization of all indicators after periods of inactivity.

The PERPETUAL CALENDAR is available in three elegant variants: rose gold with argenté dial (Ref. MG-003906), rose gold with anthracite dial (Ref. MG-003907), and platinum with argenté/anthracite dial (Ref. MG-003904). Each model is paired with a hand-stitched dark brown alligator leather strap and a matching prong buckle.

Moritz Grossmann continues to honour its namesake's 19th-century legacy with a commitment to "Schönstes deutsches Handwerk" — the finest German craftsmanship. The PERPETUAL CALENDAR is a testament to this enduring vision, offering collectors a timepiece that is as poetic as it is precise.

 

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JANUARY 19 2026    |    Novelties

DANIEL ROTH Unveils the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton

A contemporary expression of classical proportion, revealing the architecture of high watchmaking
 

DANIEL ROTH presents the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton, a new interpretation of one of the Maison’s most emblematic creations. Remaining faithful to the proportions and restrained elegance of the Extra Plat, this latest iteration introduces skeletonisation for the first time in the brand’s modern revival, allowing the inner architecture of the watch to take centre stage.

Conceived in the spirit of La Montre Objet d’Art, the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton preserves the calm geometry of the double‑ellipse case while offering a transparent view into the movement, transforming technical construction into a visual and artistic experience.

The Extra Plat: A signature revisited
Simplicity, when executed with absolute precision, has long been central to the identity of DANIEL ROTH. During the early years of his independent career, Mr. Roth considered the Extra Plat a complication in its own right, favouring it for the technical discipline required to achieve true thinness and perfect proportion.

Defined by its double‑ellipse case and balanced architecture, the Extra Plat became a cornerstone of the Maison’s aesthetic vocabulary in the early 1990s. While Daniel Roth produced skeletonised versions of select complications during that period, the Extra Plat itself was never skeletonised. This new creation therefore marks a respectful yet meaningful evolution, expanding the expressive range of the Extra Plat while remaining faithful to its original spirit.

The DR002SR calibre: a skeletonised rose gold heart
At the centre of the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is the new manually wound calibre DR002SR, developed and manufactured entirely at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini.

Based on the DR002, the DR002SR has been re‑engineered from the ground up specifically for skeletonisation. The bridges and plates have been reshaped to maximise openness and visual clarity, while preserving structural rigidity and chronometric performance. Crafted in solid 18k 5N rose gold, the movement mirrors the warmth of the case and provides an ideal canvas for traditional hand finishing.


Transparency in motion
Skeletonisation is an exercise in reduction and balance. With the DR002SR, DANIEL ROTH brings this principle to its highest expression. The calibre reveals a wealth of hand‑executed details, including numerous hand‑polished internal angles, black‑polished steel components, and meticulously bevelled bridges—finishes that can only be achieved by skilled artisans and never by machine.

Despite its openworked construction, the DR002SR retains a power reserve of 65 hours and a frequency of 4 Hz, underscoring the Maison’s commitment to both technical integrity and timeless aesthetics.


Slim proportions, uncompromised structure
Housed in a 38.6 × 35.5 mm double‑ellipse case crafted in 18k rose gold, the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton measures just 6.9 mm in thickness. This exceptional slenderness ensures that the watch remains true to the Extra Plat philosophy of discreet elegance and effortless wearability.

Produced in extremely limited numbers each year, the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is intended for collectors who value traditional high watchmaking expressed with clarity, restraint, and depth.

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