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To mark the 16th anniversary of the manufactory, Moritz Grossmann presents the limited-edition ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage

NOVEMBER 13 2024    |    Novelties

Black is the absence of light. This is the physical definition of a colour that is synonymous with classicism and elegance. At Moritz Grossmann, black is used to form stylish contrasts and also serves as a testament to the highest standards of craftsmanship. The limited-edition ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage, for example, has an enamel dial whose manufacture presents multiple challenges. With this, Moritz Grossmann has chosen the occasion of its 16th birthday to once again shine the spotlight on the expertise of the ateliers and workshops in Glashütte.

Tradition requires renewal, otherwise it remains stagnant in the past and cannot survive. This is an approach that Moritz Grossmann has embodied since 2008: the manufactory opened 16 years ago as a tribute to one of the most exceptional personalities in the history of watchmaking in Glashütte. Moritz Grossmann was an innovative watchmaker and, with the founding of the German Watchmaking School in Glashütte, influenced a generation of artisans.

His values and vision now live on in the Moritz Grossmann manufactory, which crafts a small but exquisite collection of sophisticated watches that always remain true to the standards of the man who gave the manufactory its name. Characteristics of these timepieces include exclusive manufactory movements with innovative details that are designed, made and finely decorated in-house in the company’s own workshops. The highest of standards also come into play when finishing the watches, as impressively demonstrated by the special model marking the 16th anniversary of the manufactory.
 

ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage: contemporary craftsmanship honouring the 16th anniversary of the manufactory
The ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage, which is limited to eight pieces, serves as a contemporary interpretation of the company's philosophy: its theme is the contrast between black, white and red, which brings the art of watchmaking as cultivated by Moritz Grossmann into the modern age.

The deep, perfect shade found on the dial draws the eye. It is rooted in the technique of enamelling, an ancient craft. The oldest known enamels date from the centuries before Christ, when artistic enamels were already being used by people in East Asia and the ancient Egyptians. Later, the art of enamelling experienced a heyday in Byzantium and also in Europe. Even early on, people marvelled at enamel because of its colourfulness, beauty and radiance, and later it was prized for its characteristics, including durability, the fact that it does not age, is smooth and has a fine yet subtle sheen.

As pocket watches started to be made, enamel gained in importance when it came to the production of dials. Its use spread to Saxony, where the art of enamelling was cultivated in gold and silversmithing. In the 17th and 18th centuries, for example, Georg Friedrich Dinglinger, a brother of the well-known Dresden court goldsmith Melchoir Dinglinger, produced some impressive works. Both artists worked under the patronage of Augustus the Strong, Elector of Saxony and King of Poland. Works of art from their workshops can today be admired at the Grünes Gewölbe in Dresden.

 

The art of enamelled dials
With the renaissance of the mechanical watch, the enamel dial has gained admirers once again. It is treasured not only for its beauty, but also because people are now aware of what is involved in its creation, a complex process that requires much skill. Enamel is formed from glass and other additives. The enamel granules are pulverised, with metal oxides or ceramic pigments lending them their colour. The enamel is then sieved while dry or applied to a dial blank as part of a blend of enamel powder, water and glue. Following the first round of firing and cooling, enamel powder is once again applied to the front and it is fired again. This process of firing, applying enamel powder and firing again is repeated several times.

Layer by layer, this creates a uniform, shiny surface that can be printed with numerals or indices following the final firing. The finished dial is impressively durable: there are no time limits on enamel and it can last for a thousand years.

 

Approximately 90 steps are involved in creating a single dial for Moritz Grossmann
This is the tradition that gave rise to the enamel dial on the ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage by Moritz Grossmann. And this technique was not just used for the colour black, but the numerals, scales and lettering, such as the historic ‘M. Grossmann’ logo, are also made from enamel. These are applied using pad printing and then fired.

In all, around 90 steps are required to complete a single dial. These take several days to complete and at every single stage, there is a risk that the enamel will crack on firing, bubbles will form or the surface will flake. Only a dial that is perfect in every single way will eventually be used in a Moritz Grossmann watch. In such watches, it serves as the canvas for time, above which polished steel hands circle with their finely pointed tips.

The deep black of the dial is a reminder of the power of colour. The perfectly smooth surface is so still that you feel you could dive straight into it. This effect is underpinned by the slimline, finely drawn Roman numerals that contrast sharply with their clear white and the red XII. A simple case in white gold provides the perfect backdrop, with the sides merging seamlessly into the case horns. The transparent case back offers an unrestricted view of a movement that is perfection itself, matching the finish in every detail.

 

The art of watchmaking from Glashütte: the calibre 100.1
The inside of the ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage is home to the calibre 100.1, a pillar movement with well-proportioned components made from untreated German silver in a high-quality finish. The characteristic 2/3 plate with broad, horizontal ribbing has been signed by a hand engraving. It has a curved cut-out that reveals the distinctive Grossmann balance, held by a stepped, hand-engraved balance cock with the typical fine micrometer screw.

Another special feature of the manufactory movement is the perfected hand setting mechanism, which eliminates two potential problem areas: avoiding the ingress of foreign particles during the adjustment process and altering the hands unintentionally when pushing the crown back into place.

With a short pull on the winding crown, the mechanism switches to hand setting and stops the movement at the same time. The crown immediately returns to its original position, where the hands can now be precisely adjusted. The movement is then restarted using a pusher situated below the winding crown. This simultaneously resets the mechanism to its winding function.

 

Exclusive special edition
The ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage in honour of the 16th anniversary of the manufactory has a case in white gold, worn on a black alligator leather strap. This special model is limited to eight pieces.

 

Enamel Roman Vintage

Technical Data

 

                                       

Version   Limited Edition of 8 pieces
Reference   MG-003717
     
Movement   Manufactory calibre 100.1, manual winding, regulated in five positions
No. of parts   198
Jewels   20 jewels, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement   Lever escapement
Oscillator   Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Balance Diameter   14.2 mm, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve   42 hours when fully wound
Functions   Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop second, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
Special features   Grossmann balance; hand setting override and start of movement with lateral pusher; space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock; pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver; hand-engraved 2/3 plate, balance cock and escape-wheel cock hand-engraved; broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; separately removable clutch winding mechanism; stop seconds for hand setting
Operating elements   Crown in 750/000 gold , to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in 750/000 gold to start the movement
Case dimensions   Diameter: 41.0 mm, height: 11.35 mm
Movement dimensions   Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.0 mm
Case   Three-part, precious metal
Dial   Enamel, Roman numerals in white, XII in red
Hands   Manually crafted, polished steel
Crystal/display back   Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Strap   Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in precious metal

 

 

                                           


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Mechanical Art Transversed: Moritz Grossmann Reveals the BACKPAGE Tremblage Anniversary Edition

The year 2026 marks a historic milestone for the Moritz Grossmann manufactory in Glashütte, celebrating the 200th birthday of its visionary founder and namesake, born on March 27, 1826. A genius watchmaker, scientist, author, and the initiator of the German Watchmaking School, Grossmann profoundly shaped the craft of horology and the fate of his hometown. Rather than merely duplicating historical concepts, the modern manufactory honors his legacy by blending his cutting-edge philosophy with modern engineering. This dedication to technological perfection and exceptional aesthetics cements its place among the world's elite elite watchmakers.

To commemorate this bicentennial occasion, the brand has unveiled its fourth anniversary special edition: the BACKPAGE Tremblage. Debuting on May 19, 2026, this launch presents an exclusive mechanical showcase for collectors—featuring a massive dial opening that reveals the magnificent inner workings of the movement from the front. Crafted with a luxurious three-part platinum case, the watch conceals a subtle celebratory nod on its reverse side: a balance cock delicately engraved with "1826", the birth year of Moritz Grossmann.

At the heart of this timepiece is the hand-wound manufactory calibre 107.0, a technical tour de force that essentially stands as a mirror image of the signature calibre 100.1. To allow components like the Grossmann balance, hand-engraved balance cock, and the triple-band snailing on the ratchet wheel to be admired on the dial side instead of being hidden on the back, the entire movement architecture had to be re-engineered. An additional wheel integrated between the crown wheel and the ratchet wheel reverses the rotation of the drive train, allowing the mirrored escapement and oscillation system to run perfectly in the correct direction.

The defining aesthetic highlight of this model is its German silver dial face, treated with the historic hand-worked tremblage engraving technique. By meticulously guiding a cutter back and forth in tiny trembling movements, master artisans create a vibrant, finely granulated, and uniform matt texture. The remaining dial elements define the watch's character, offered in either an expressive violet or a captivating "blue meteor" galvanized shade, framing the hour display from 11 to 5 o'clock. Strictly limited to 12 pieces per color variant worldwide, the models are completed with matching hand-annealed steel hands and hand-stitched alligator or kudu leather straps.

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The defining silhouette of this timepiece remains the signature double-ellipse case, an iconic geometry originally created by master watchmaker Daniel Roth to beautifully frame complex horological mechanisms. To complement this distinctive shape, downward-sloping lugs have been elegantly integrated to ensure optimal wrist comfort while providing a handsome architectural contrast against the light-tan calfskin leather strap. The dial base is forged from solid white gold, displaying a mesmerizing pinstripe guilloché texture executed entirely by hand using a traditional rose engine. Each line is individually carved with masterful control over depth and spacing, beautifully bordered by a gold minute disc finished with a classic filet sauté edge and sharp black typography.

Beneath this stunning facade lies the core of the timepiece: the ultra-thin, hand-wound manufacture Calibre DR002, fully developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the expert guidance of master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. Tasked with striking the perfect balance between chronometric precision and a generous power reserve within a slim 3.1 mm structure, the watchmakers increased the movement's frequency to 4 Hz. To sustain this high frequency without sacrificing energy efficiency or structural stability, the calibre incorporates a specially refined balance wheel featuring a variable-inertia geometry and adjustable counterweights.

An open sapphire caseback reveals the true artistic discipline of the manufacture, where technical engineering and aesthetic restraint seamlessly converge. The movement's bridges are decorated with demanding hand-finishing details, most notably the internal angles which are rendered in a rare, rounded bercé form. Requiring at least twice the execution time of a standard flat bevel, this traditional decoration involves polishing a precise curved radius along the edges to create a brilliant, uniform profile. Shaped and hand-polished in-house using a traditional cabron tool, these components reinforce the brand's unwavering commitment to its guiding philosophy: "La Montre Objet d'Art".

 

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SÄNTIS BY STREHLER - The world on your wrist

Three years ago, independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler launched his new brand, Strehler, to present his philosophy and craftsmanship in a more accessible form. The first model, Sirna, was designed as an essential time‑only watch that distilled his precision, expertise, and uncompromising finishing. The second model, Säntis, takes the brand naturally into the realm of complications. Like Sirna, which was named after the town Sirnach, Säntis draws its name from the mountain near Strehler’s workshop, the highest peak of the Appenzell Alps.

World Time Concept & Crown Operation
Responding to a collector’s request and inspired by his earlier Sauterelle Heure Mondiale, Strehler created a world time watch that remains elegant, intuitive, and deeply personal. Säntis uses a Cottier‑style world time display operated entirely by a single three‑position crown—preserving design purity and simplicity. The 40 mm medical‑grade stainless‑steel case blends refinement with ergonomics and stays below 10 mm thick even with the added mechanism.

Titanium Dial & Time Zone Display
The titanium dial features a sculptural three‑dimensional texture, individually machined, engraved, and hand‑polished. Its pattern is adapted from a design created with Eric Giroud for Sirna. Surrounding it, the 24‑hour ring marks day and night and rotates once per day, aligning with a fixed city ring listing 24 time zones. Central European Time is indicated by “Strehler” rather than a city, and DST‑observing cities are marked with a sun symbol. Both the city disc and 24‑hour disc use luminous printing, with additional luminous dots along the minute track.

Colour Options, Hands & Movement
The titanium dial features a sculptural three‑dimensional texture, individually machined, engraved, and hand‑polished. Its pattern is adapted from a design created with Eric Giroud for Sirna. Surrounding it, the 24‑hour ring marks day and night and rotates once per day, aligning with a fixed city ring listing 24 time zones. Central European Time is indicated by “Strehler” rather than a city, and DST‑observing cities are marked with a sun symbol. Both the city disc and 24‑hour disc use luminous printing, with additional luminous dots along the minute track.

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