Shopping Cart

To mark the 16th anniversary of the manufactory, Moritz Grossmann presents the limited-edition ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage

NOVEMBER 13 2024    |    Novelties

Black is the absence of light. This is the physical definition of a colour that is synonymous with classicism and elegance. At Moritz Grossmann, black is used to form stylish contrasts and also serves as a testament to the highest standards of craftsmanship. The limited-edition ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage, for example, has an enamel dial whose manufacture presents multiple challenges. With this, Moritz Grossmann has chosen the occasion of its 16th birthday to once again shine the spotlight on the expertise of the ateliers and workshops in Glashütte.

Tradition requires renewal, otherwise it remains stagnant in the past and cannot survive. This is an approach that Moritz Grossmann has embodied since 2008: the manufactory opened 16 years ago as a tribute to one of the most exceptional personalities in the history of watchmaking in Glashütte. Moritz Grossmann was an innovative watchmaker and, with the founding of the German Watchmaking School in Glashütte, influenced a generation of artisans.

His values and vision now live on in the Moritz Grossmann manufactory, which crafts a small but exquisite collection of sophisticated watches that always remain true to the standards of the man who gave the manufactory its name. Characteristics of these timepieces include exclusive manufactory movements with innovative details that are designed, made and finely decorated in-house in the company’s own workshops. The highest of standards also come into play when finishing the watches, as impressively demonstrated by the special model marking the 16th anniversary of the manufactory.
 

ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage: contemporary craftsmanship honouring the 16th anniversary of the manufactory
The ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage, which is limited to eight pieces, serves as a contemporary interpretation of the company's philosophy: its theme is the contrast between black, white and red, which brings the art of watchmaking as cultivated by Moritz Grossmann into the modern age.

The deep, perfect shade found on the dial draws the eye. It is rooted in the technique of enamelling, an ancient craft. The oldest known enamels date from the centuries before Christ, when artistic enamels were already being used by people in East Asia and the ancient Egyptians. Later, the art of enamelling experienced a heyday in Byzantium and also in Europe. Even early on, people marvelled at enamel because of its colourfulness, beauty and radiance, and later it was prized for its characteristics, including durability, the fact that it does not age, is smooth and has a fine yet subtle sheen.

As pocket watches started to be made, enamel gained in importance when it came to the production of dials. Its use spread to Saxony, where the art of enamelling was cultivated in gold and silversmithing. In the 17th and 18th centuries, for example, Georg Friedrich Dinglinger, a brother of the well-known Dresden court goldsmith Melchoir Dinglinger, produced some impressive works. Both artists worked under the patronage of Augustus the Strong, Elector of Saxony and King of Poland. Works of art from their workshops can today be admired at the Grünes Gewölbe in Dresden.

 

The art of enamelled dials
With the renaissance of the mechanical watch, the enamel dial has gained admirers once again. It is treasured not only for its beauty, but also because people are now aware of what is involved in its creation, a complex process that requires much skill. Enamel is formed from glass and other additives. The enamel granules are pulverised, with metal oxides or ceramic pigments lending them their colour. The enamel is then sieved while dry or applied to a dial blank as part of a blend of enamel powder, water and glue. Following the first round of firing and cooling, enamel powder is once again applied to the front and it is fired again. This process of firing, applying enamel powder and firing again is repeated several times.

Layer by layer, this creates a uniform, shiny surface that can be printed with numerals or indices following the final firing. The finished dial is impressively durable: there are no time limits on enamel and it can last for a thousand years.

 

Approximately 90 steps are involved in creating a single dial for Moritz Grossmann
This is the tradition that gave rise to the enamel dial on the ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage by Moritz Grossmann. And this technique was not just used for the colour black, but the numerals, scales and lettering, such as the historic ‘M. Grossmann’ logo, are also made from enamel. These are applied using pad printing and then fired.

In all, around 90 steps are required to complete a single dial. These take several days to complete and at every single stage, there is a risk that the enamel will crack on firing, bubbles will form or the surface will flake. Only a dial that is perfect in every single way will eventually be used in a Moritz Grossmann watch. In such watches, it serves as the canvas for time, above which polished steel hands circle with their finely pointed tips.

The deep black of the dial is a reminder of the power of colour. The perfectly smooth surface is so still that you feel you could dive straight into it. This effect is underpinned by the slimline, finely drawn Roman numerals that contrast sharply with their clear white and the red XII. A simple case in white gold provides the perfect backdrop, with the sides merging seamlessly into the case horns. The transparent case back offers an unrestricted view of a movement that is perfection itself, matching the finish in every detail.

 

The art of watchmaking from Glashütte: the calibre 100.1
The inside of the ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage is home to the calibre 100.1, a pillar movement with well-proportioned components made from untreated German silver in a high-quality finish. The characteristic 2/3 plate with broad, horizontal ribbing has been signed by a hand engraving. It has a curved cut-out that reveals the distinctive Grossmann balance, held by a stepped, hand-engraved balance cock with the typical fine micrometer screw.

Another special feature of the manufactory movement is the perfected hand setting mechanism, which eliminates two potential problem areas: avoiding the ingress of foreign particles during the adjustment process and altering the hands unintentionally when pushing the crown back into place.

With a short pull on the winding crown, the mechanism switches to hand setting and stops the movement at the same time. The crown immediately returns to its original position, where the hands can now be precisely adjusted. The movement is then restarted using a pusher situated below the winding crown. This simultaneously resets the mechanism to its winding function.

 

Exclusive special edition
The ENAMEL ROMAN Vintage in honour of the 16th anniversary of the manufactory has a case in white gold, worn on a black alligator leather strap. This special model is limited to eight pieces.

 

Enamel Roman Vintage

Technical Data

 

                                       

Version   Limited Edition of 8 pieces
Reference   MG-003717
     
Movement   Manufactory calibre 100.1, manual winding, regulated in five positions
No. of parts   198
Jewels   20 jewels, of which 3 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement   Lever escapement
Oscillator   Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Balance Diameter   14.2 mm, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve   42 hours when fully wound
Functions   Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop second, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
Special features   Grossmann balance; hand setting override and start of movement with lateral pusher; space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock; pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver; hand-engraved 2/3 plate, balance cock and escape-wheel cock hand-engraved; broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; separately removable clutch winding mechanism; stop seconds for hand setting
Operating elements   Crown in 750/000 gold , to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in 750/000 gold to start the movement
Case dimensions   Diameter: 41.0 mm, height: 11.35 mm
Movement dimensions   Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.0 mm
Case   Three-part, precious metal
Dial   Enamel, Roman numerals in white, XII in red
Hands   Manually crafted, polished steel
Crystal/display back   Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Strap   Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in precious metal

 

 

                                           


Related Articles

MARCH 02 2026    |    Novelties

Introducing the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby

ARMIN STROM introduces a compelling new interpretation of its most emblematic complication with the debut of the Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby. This creation stands out through its extraordinary natural ruby dial, sourced and crafted by a local Swiss stone artisan. The brand selected only genuine ruby exhibiting depth of colour, fine inclusions, and naturally occurring variations—features that are not flaws but signatures of authenticity, shaped by geological processes over millions of years. As light moves across the dial, subtle tonal shifts appear, infusing the watch with a vibrant mineral presence that contrasts strikingly with the symmetry and modernity of the exposed mechanics.

Beyond its visual impact, this edition embodies ARMIN STROM’s belief that materials must carry meaning. While natural ruby asserts its aesthetic and symbolic presence on the dial, synthetic ruby jewels within the movement fulfil their longstanding horological role of reducing friction and ensuring long-term precision. It is a thoughtful dialogue between nature and engineering, where raw mineral beauty coexists with technical necessity.

At the core of the watch lies the hand-finished Calibre ARF21, a manufacture movement entirely designed and produced in-house. Its defining feature is the brand’s patented Resonance Clutch Spring, which connects two independent regulating systems, enabling the balance wheels to oscillate in harmonic resonance. This phenomenon enhances chronometric stability and is visually showcased by a pusher at 2 o’clock that resets both seconds hands simultaneously—a dramatic demonstration of mechanical synchronicity in action. Operating at 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph) and offering a 48-hour power reserve, the movement transforms a centuries-old scientific principle into contemporary watchmaking mastery.

Craftsmanship remains central to ARMIN STROM’s ethos. The bridges feature hand-polished bevels, black-polished screws, perlage, and circular graining, with Geneva stripes enriching the reverse side. As with every ARMIN STROM timepiece, each watch is assembled twice, ensuring absolute performance and finishing quality. This meticulous approach, combined with the vibrant ruby dial, creates a visually dynamic composition—a living interplay between stone, metal, and motion.

Encased in a 43 mm stainless steel case and fitted with a grey Alcantara strap featuring white stitching, the Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby delivers both presence and refinement. It is not merely a new dial variation, but an artistic expression grounded in horological integrity—an encounter between natural geology and mechanical resonance, distilled into a timepiece of exceptional character.

 

View Watch Gallery
Image 1


  
View More
APRIL 07 2026    |    Watches and Wonders 2026

The HM Pietersite: A Tribute to the Spirit of Exploration and the Art of the Ultra-Thin

Arnold & Son presents two new evocative versions of its ultra-thin HM model, featuring dials crafted from Namibian pietersite. Often called the "stone of storms," this decorative mineral belongs to the chalcedony family and was first discovered by Sid Pieters in the early 1960s. Each unique dial displays delicate, swirling patterns that recall the turbulent skies and foaming waves of Cornwall, the English birthplace of founder John Arnold. This design pays tribute to the ingenuity of the legendary watchmaker while celebrating the spirit of those who maintain their course in a challenging world.

The designation "HM" was intentionally chosen to reflect the watch's focus on displaying only hours and minutes, while simultaneously serving as a historical nod to the British Royal Navy. In naval tradition, HM stands for "His or Her Majesty’s," a title that appeared in the 17th century and was later formalized as HMS. By transposing this reference to watchmaking, Arnold & Son connects the precision of modern horology with England's maritime history, specifically the era when John Arnold’s marine chronometers enabled the exploration of new lands.

Encased in a choice of 18-carat red gold or stainless steel, the HM Pietersite is a masterpiece of elegance and restraint. The case measures a refined 39.5 mm in diameter with a remarkably slim profile of just 7.82 mm. To complement the dreamlike, diaphanous patterns of the pietersite dial, the timepiece is paired with a matte ink-blue alligator leather strap and a traditional pin buckle crafted from the same metal as the case. These limited editions are produced in extremely small quantities, with only 8 pieces available in red gold and 18 in steel.

At the heart of this timepiece lies the ultra-thin, in-house A&S1001 manual-winding calibre. Visible through a sapphire crystal case back, the movement is a showcase of luxury finishing, featuring a rhodium-plated main plate with circular graining and bridges adorned with radiating Côtes de Genève. Despite its slender height of only 2.70 mm, the movement offers exceptional performance with a generous 90-hour power reserve. Every detail, from the snail-finished wheels to the blued screws with polished heads, reflects the most exacting standards of Swiss watchmaking.

View Watch Gallery  
Image 1  Image 2 Image 3  Image 4       
View More
ENDLESS DISCOVERY IN YOUR INBOX
Join our mailing list to receive insider updates on our latest collections, invites to private events, and other personalized offerings.