Perpetual Moon 41.5 Red Gold – Cliff Grey Edition

To celebrate 17 years since its rebirth in 2008, Moritz Grossmann unveils a horological milestone: the PERPETUAL CALENDAR. This grand complication embodies the brand's philosophy of timeless precision, combining traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation.

The PERPETUAL CALENDAR is engineered to automatically account for the varying lengths of months and leap years, requiring no manual correction until the year 2100. This makes it one of the most technically demanding and revered complications in fine watchmaking.

The dial is a study in symmetry and clarity. A full 1–31 date scale encircles the dial, with a cup-shaped indicator framing the current date. The month and weekday are displayed on subdials at 3 and 9 o'clock, decorated with Azurage finishing. Leap year and day/night indicators are integrated into the subdials. At 12 o'clock, a poetic moon phase display features a mother-of-pearl moon gliding across a goldstone sky.

At the heart of the watch is the newly developed Calibre 101.13, a hand-wound movement based on the 100.1 calibre with an added perpetual calendar module. It comprises 401 components — 211 for the calendar module and 190 for the base movement. The movement features optimised stopwork, an integrated manual winder, and an escape wheel bearing in the barrel bridge. The finishing adheres to traditional Glashütte standards, with untreated German silver plates, raised gold chatons, and hand-engraved details.

All calendar functions can be adjusted via recessed correctors on the case, operated with a dedicated tool. A sum corrector allows for quick synchronization of all indicators after periods of inactivity.

The PERPETUAL CALENDAR is available in three elegant variants: rose gold with argenté dial (Ref. MG-003906), rose gold with anthracite dial (Ref. MG-003907), and platinum with argenté/anthracite dial (Ref. MG-003904). Each model is paired with a hand-stitched dark brown alligator leather strap and a matching prong buckle.

Moritz Grossmann continues to honour its namesake's 19th-century legacy with a commitment to "Schönstes deutsches Handwerk" — the finest German craftsmanship. The PERPETUAL CALENDAR is a testament to this enduring vision, offering collectors a timepiece that is as poetic as it is precise.

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Angelus unites the chronograph's key functional scales—telemeter, pulsometer, and tachymeter—in a single design. True to its heritage as a maker of functional timepieces, Angelus brings together the expertise developed through its previous instruments in the Instrument de Mesures. Produced in two limited editions of 25 pieces, this watch is a genuine instrument of measurement, designed to calculate elapsed time, the speed of sound, distance travelled and heart rate. Using a single chronograph hand, it integrates three functions, each with its own dedicated scale. Housed in a 39 mm steel case, its three-dimensional dial is both highly legible and meticulously graduated, giving the Instrument de Mesures the character of an authentic tool watch with a distinctive vintage charm and singular identity.

One Instrument, Multiple Measurements
Integrating these three scales alongside the essential minute track required a particularly sophisticated design approach. The amount of information to be displayed, combined with the need for legibility and clarity, led Angelus to adopt a distinct colour code for each function. This arrangement is reinforced by a three-dimensional dial construction, featuring a domed centre and outer edge connected by a sloping intermediate section. The telemetric scale is situated on the highest level at the periphery of the dial. The pulsometer extends across the angled intermediate section, and the tachymeter, in the form of a spiral, is located closest to the hands.

The In-House A5000 Chronograph Calibre
The Instrument de Mesures is powered by Angelus's in-house A5000 chronograph calibre. Its classical architecture showcases numerous intricately shaped components, providing an ideal canvas for high-end finishing. Faithful to the great traditions of chronograph watchmaking, the A5000 incorporates a column wheel and a horizontal clutch, both defining features of traditional chronographs.
 

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Independent manufacture Greubel Forsey has unveiled the Balancier QM ($GF09cm$), marking a historic milestone for the workshop by officially naming its highest, most uncompromising hand-finishing standard: Qualité Musée (Museum Quality). While this meticulous level of execution has been quietly embedded into every single timepiece crafted by the Atelier since its founding in 2004, the Balancier QM is the first model to formally carry the designation. Driven forward by a dedicated research wing within the brand’s proprietary EWT (Experimental Watch Technology) Laboratory, this standard mandates that every individual component, whether fully visible through the sapphire crystals or buried deep within the gear train, must hold up as a standalone work of art.

The mechanical architecture of the Balancier QM is a tour de force of in-house micro-engineering and innovation. Most notably, the timepiece features a specialized hairspring manufactured entirely in-house from the raw alloy stage up—a rarity in modern watchmaking accomplished via restored antique machinery. This is paired with an impressive $12.60\text{ mm}$ variable-inertia balance wheel and a cutting-edge bi-level escapement system that utilizes unique convex pallet-jewels, allowing light to softly diffuse through the rubies rather than abruptly reflecting off flat surfaces. Illustrating the immense labor required for the Qualité Musée standard, the steel balance wheel bridge alone requires seven distinct hand-finishing techniques, ranging from flawless mirror barrel polishing to extra-large $0.40\text{ mm}$ hand-polished bevels.

Visually, the timepiece presents an intricately layered, three-dimensional landscape neatly organized within a highly compact 39.60mm white gold case. The movement architecture encourages deep visual exploration; the escapement is nestled into the lowermost depths of the chassis, while the eye naturally ascends past a high-set small seconds sub-dial, flame-blued polished steel hands, and a raised chapter ring. Beneath this upper track, a power-reserve indicator slips mysteriously across a dedicated sector to track the watch's 72-hour chronometric power delivery, sustained by two fast-rotating, series-coupled mainspring barrels. True to Greubel Forsey’s signature underplayed luxury, the words "Qualité Musée" are entirely absent from the dial, hidden instead on a secret internal plate deep inside the movement.

Limited to just 33 exclusive timepieces worldwide, the Balancier QM represents a deliberate strategic pivot for Greubel Forsey toward smaller, more wearable case dimensions without sacrificing an ounce of technical complexity. The manufacture openly acknowledges that achieving this level of structural perfection across all 298 movement parts demands an extraordinary expenditure of time, which will intentionally reduce the company's overall production volume heading into 2027. Looking ahead, the Qualité Musée standard will serve as the foundation for a series of compact releases, including a highly anticipated movement under development at the EWT lab featuring a gear train crafted entirely from solid gold.
 

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